Wednesday, December 28, 2016

Brown + Hot Pink Double-Breasted Jacket

The only thing good about cold weather is cute outerwear.

I say this every year because I really don't like winter but I really do like coats. They make it bearable, and I have a number of them. You can never have too much outerwear IMO. Yes I live in south Texas. Having a nice wardrobe means being prepared for any occasion and that includes weather.




The pattern is Vogue 1467, an Anne Klein designer pattern that came out last year. The McCall's blog did a sew along for it last year, and I totally meant to participate, but something must have come up. I just love this design, especially the standing collar. I picked a long time stash resident for the body fabric - a brown wool blend (I think!) with hot pink pin dots. I think I bought it locally. I loved it so much that I saved it and saved it for just the right project.



I used a knit interfacing for the fronts and side fronts, and a woven interfacing for the facings, belt, outer collar stand and upper collar. The topstitching was done with my triple stitch setting and regular thread. The buttons I purchased locally.


I cut out the muslin last year, and for some reason I cut the size 10 and I cannot remember why. I'm always a 12 for fitted woven patterns. When I stitched it up, the front fit just fine but the back was really tight. To solve this I added 1/2 inch to each center back. I had to add two small darts to the back neckline in order to cinch it up to meet the collar. They pretty much disappear into the fabric.


I really like the inset V at the top of the back and the half belt. I used the same style brown buttons in a smaller size for it. I cut the fabric out in a single layer to insure that my dots were on grain, and by the time I got to the under sleeves I was on fabric fumes. Those I cut on the cross grain, but you can't tell on the finished jacket. Whew!


I really love the fit of this design. It's big enough to layer over other clothing but not too boxy to obliterate my shape. The key to making this pattern successfully is the fabric choice. Because it's on the fitted side, you need a light to medium weight coating. The fabric suggestions on the envelope are wool flannel, crepe or gabardine. Anything thicker will give you a stuffed sausage look. 



Because of fabric shortage, I had to use a different fabric for the under collar. I went to the store and scoured the shelves for a matching brown and this is as close as I could find. It's some sort of home-dec fabric that was thin and somewhat stiff. I left off the interfacing in order to reduce bulk in this area. My one big fear while making this was that the collar wouldn't lay nicely like the envelope example. 



I stitched in one large snap on the under layer instead of the buttons called for. Snaps are easier for me to do up and I have a thing for these really big ones. The functioning buttons I sewed on with thread shanks.



Here you can just see the angled darts I added to the neckline to bring it in after adding an inch to the back seam. That back V is such a cute detail. 



The pattern has a half lining and back seams covered with bias binding. I substituted a full lining instead, and used a hot pink silk charmeuse from Mood that I had in my stash. How fun is it to have a pop of color on the inside of a lined garment?!


Dress form pictures (overexposed to see details):


I decided to move all the buttons up from the the pattern's placement in order to use my pockets without interference. It's hard to sew on that last functioning button and not catch the pocket at the same time.


It's been about two years since I've made a fitted jacket, but they are always so rewarding. My favorite part is when the lining is being sewn to the body. It looks like a mess until all the seams are trimmed and it's turned to the outside and it suddenly becomes a beautiful garment. The process reminds me of a butterfly emerging from a chrysalis.

58 comments:

  1. I Love it! Beautiful work, beautiful fabric.

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  2. that looks great and you made good fabric choices all around. I know just what you mean about not choosing a fabric that is too thick for that type of design - good to mention it for others who might make. and that comment about the buttons that obstruct the use of the pockets - oh that bugs when it happens.
    Happy New Year to you and your family.

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    1. Thank you Beth! Happy New Year to you and yours as well.

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  3. What a beautiful jacket, and cute design! Great work!

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  4. I love this jacket and the pattern/color choice. You did a wonderful job it's perfect.

    Deedee

    http://madeupgirl-madeupgirl.blogspot.com/

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  5. What a gorgeous coat -- done very well. The hot pink lining makes it extra yummy.

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  6. Beautiful jacket, Amanda! I love the lining color "pop".

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    1. Thanks Aisha! Even though I'm the only one who knows it's there, I still like a little something special on the inside.

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  7. Lovely jacket Amanda. I think in the original pattern you are supposed to hand sew part of the collar (you didn't need to I am guessing because you added your beautiful lining?) so that's another reason to avoid thick fabrics for this. Lovely fit and very practical.

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    1. The only hand sewing that goes into the collar is slip-stitching the inner collar stand down once the outer is sewn on. The half lining has a back piece as well, although it only extends down half the length of the coat. But yes, with the inner and outer collar plus inner and outer collar stand, it gets quite bulky very quickly. Some people who made this had collars that wouldn't lay flat because of the body of the fabric chosen, which I was worried about. Thanks for your comment Manju!

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  8. Beautiful Amanda! You do make the most beautiful things.

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  9. So cute! Perfect for a mild winter. And even though I live in the tundra, I don't *hate* winter. I love coats and boots too much! :)

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    1. Dang! The tundra! I'm not sure I could survive that. This might not be something you need then. Thanks KS!

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  10. Amanda, just beautiful, and fits you perfectly. Love your choices for lining and buttons also! And, as sewmanju said, so practical also!

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  11. This jacket is adorable - love it! What fabric did you use for your muslin? Karen

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    1. Oh just regular muslin that I bought tons of before Hancock Fabrics went out of business. I think it was $1.50 a yard or so. Nothing special. Thanks Karen!

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  12. Oh! This is so beautiful. I like that you used a print actually. It's unexpected for a coat. And, the lining is WONDERFUL.

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    1. Yeah, I have plenty of solid color coats that I've purchased, but if I want a print I've got to make it myself. Not too many of those available either online (in my price range) or locally. I like the uniqueness. Thanks Renee!

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  13. Love your coat and it fits you beautifully. I think the home dec fabric you used for the undercollar worked out just fine. And thank you for pointing out the placement of the buttons. Beautiful coat!

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    1. Thank you Tomasa! I actually really wanted corduroy, as I'd seen that used on the under collar of a man's tailored jacket. But they had like two solid colors of corduroy and neither matched so I went over to the remnant area. It was a little plastic-y but was fine for such a small area.

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  14. Oh wonderful. I absolutely adore this jacket pattern, your expert sewing, and choice of fabrics/colors. Gotta love brown + pink. Yes, a pop of color for a lining is so chic and stylish. The double-breasted design is also an added plus. 'Wish this jacket were mine to wear, lol :)

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  15. Wow.. great jacket! Good job.Perfect.

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  16. As usual, Amanda, this is perfect! If imperfect, you are the only one who knows. I love everything about it, and it is a fabulous design for you to wear. Not everyone can rock that double-breasted coat! I think you used your hoarded fabric on just the right project. Wear it in good health for a long time

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  17. Really lovely, and beautiful sewing as usual! I have always loved this style of collar, and the back neck detail is very cute!

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  18. This looks absolutely fabulous!!! I like the large snap! and hee for the fabric fumes. A real "make it work" moment!

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    1. Gosh, I seem to have those make it work moments more than most people. No thank you panicked feeling! Thanks for your comment, Kyle!

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  19. I've been following you for awhile and this is one of my favorite things that you've sewn. It's awesome!

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  20. Your jacket is stellar Amanda! Is it possible to love the inside of the jacket more than the outside, because I do!! LOL!

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  21. Beautiful jacket, Amanda. It's always a treat to read your review. Your details on the fit and construction process are always helpful.

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  22. Wow, what a perfectly wonderful way to end 2016! This is such a flattering jacket and it's impeccably constructed. Happy New Year!

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    1. Thanks Helene! Have a Happy New Year as well!!

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  23. Gorgeous coat -I love the contrasting under collar. It's the small things that count.

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  24. Can I say, THANK YOU for changing the background on your blog. The black really hurt my eyes while reading:) Also, how did you determine you needed to add to the back neck? Did you muslin? Your sewing is always an inspiration. Thank you for showing us!

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    1. Lol, you're welcome! Sorry it gave you such pain. Yes, I did muslin. It was tight through the center back seam, not at the neckline. I added an inch to the center back and had to pinch out the excess at the neckline with two diagonal darts.

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  25. Amazing Amanda! Love the new site decor and that jacket!!!! I purchased the pattern today and have the best fabric!! Thanks for the inspiration!

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    1. Oh yay! I'm guessing you got it during the big BMV sale? I also just bought all the new McCall's that I've had my eyes on. Good luck making your jacket!

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  26. Beautiful as always. Love that pink lining!

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  27. Beautiful work and I love the colour combination. I also loved your comment that sewing a jacket is like a butterfly emerging from a chrysalis, very poetic and true!

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