Saturday, September 17, 2016

Vogue 9154 - Textured wool skirt

Finding wool clothing in south Texas is just about impossible. Of course our winters are pretty mild and don't last half the year, but it does get cold here. Well, cold to me anyway. If I want wool clothing I have to make it myself, which I am perfectly okay with as it's always such a well behaved fabric. I am really into textures lately, so when I spotted this striped novelty wool-acrylic blend at Moodfabrics.com, I quickly bought 1.5 yards without anything in mind.


I decided to use Vogue 9154 and make the knee length version of the skirt. I really like the way the stripes come together in chevrons at CF and CB, and horizontally on the sides. The yoke has interesting seam lines as well, although those can not be easily seen with this fabric. I'm definitely making one of the longer views in the near future in a solid color to show them off better. Perhaps I'll add some topstitching as well.


This fabric might look striped from a distance but it's actually rows of yarn secured to an olive green backing. It's a fun texture that doesn't add much bulk. I'm really not sure how much acrylic content this fabric has. I was about to sweat to death while taking these pictures, so rest assured it is really warm. This wool pressed really well but it is somewhat thick to sew with. I had to wrangle it under my machine foot, but once in place it fed through easily. I sewed my seams using bright blue thread so that I could see it easily if I needed to rip it out. I also stitched all the seams with a 4mm stitch length.


I cut a straight size 12 and took a 1.5" hem instead of the 5/8" hem in the pattern directions. I like shorter skirts for winter when they'll likely be worn with tights. On my body, knee length skirts paired with tights make me look like I'm wearing my grandma's clothes. My maroon top was made this past January and is also wool. Can you see the perspiration forming on my forehead? Lol.


I have found that skirts without waistbands tend to slip around when worn over tights, so I wanted something on the inside that had a little gripping power. I chose a cobalt blue tricot lining from my stash for the inside facing. In order to give the waist some stability and prevent it from stretching out, I added clear elastic to the seamline. Early on I realized I was not going to be able to finish the seams with my typical overlocking stitch, so I cut strips of the tricot and did a Hong Kong finish instead. I also finished off the bottom hem the same way.


Although my camera is making this blue appear much brighter then it is in person, I quite like the pop of color on the inside. I'm also going to explore making more unlined sweater knits now that I know how to neatly finish off the edges.

Note: This fabric was purchased with my Mood Fabrics monthly allowance, as part of my participation in the Mood Sewing Network.

30 comments:

  1. This pattern is already in my stash and is on my list of possible things to sew for winter so I was so pleased to see your review. Love the fabric choice. I also have problems with waistband less skirts staying on my waist so I will refer back to your review when I make this.

    ReplyDelete
  2. We hardly wear wool in western Oregon. I can feel your 'glow' from here. Although, we are lucky to enjoy Pendleton wools nearby. Lovely skirt, lovely styling.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Kathy! Funny that you should mention Oregon as I always load up on wool socks when I go there to visit family. But they are on the coast and it's always somewhat cool and breezy, even in the summer.

      Delete
  3. Very pretty! That is such a fun skirt shape, and very flattering.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Jenny! I was worried it would turn out too ice-skater looking but the heaviness of the fabric weighs it down nicely.

      Delete
  4. I appreciate the wool conundrum. In Australia it is very hard to find nice wool clothing that doesn't cost a bomb. Even affordable wool fabric are scarce. It's a shame as it is such a versatile fibre and you can make such lovely things from it like you did!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Huh. I thought neighboring New Zealand had lots of sheep, but maybe I'm thinking of England. Sorry you can't find it easily! Mood ships internationally now.. Thanks Siobhan!

      Delete
  5. This fabric was a perfect choice for this pattern (or the pattern was a perfect choice for the fabric, maybe?) and it looks great with the top and tights!

    ReplyDelete
  6. Really gorgeous! Love the hong kong finish, although I wonder why you didn't use your serger? I thought you had one but I may be wrong! Regardless, you have done some more beautiful work.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I don't own a serger, but I do used the overlocking stitch on my regular machine to finish edges. I figured it would either stretch the bias sections out and/or not catch all of the yarn ends. It's got a somewhat loose weave. Thanks Rosalind!

      Delete
  7. Beautiful ensemble. The skirt goes perfectly with the maroon top which is going to be a popular color this fall.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Not that I bought the fabric to match but I'm pretty stoked that they go together so well! I didn't have anything to match that top except jeans. Thanks Tomasa!

      Delete
  8. Fantastic outfit and skirt...love the whole thing...GREAt MAKE INDEED

    ReplyDelete
  9. So well sewn and that fabric looks YUMMY!!!!!!!!!

    ReplyDelete
  10. it is getting cooler here! And we will have winter here and then I really like to have a warm skirt. This one you made is so nice! Have to write down the pattern number and have a look somewhere!!
    Wilma

    ReplyDelete
  11. super cute skirt. Even though it is going to be 90 degrees here today in N. Calif I am also thinking of sweater knits :) will check out the Mood site.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Last year I waited to get started on fall stuff until really late and regretted it when I got super busy with the holidays. I say go for it! Even if your weather isn't cooperating. ;)

      Delete
  12. What a perfect fabric for this skirt! And once more so "flamenco-ish"! I adore the burgundy tights and the matching shoes.
    Your seam finishing is perfect. These are just the things one knows when worn.....and makes you feel ...hum?.... better! Yeah...better! It's the beauty of inside. Invisible for others....but you know.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I guess I'm on a flared skirt kick! Thanks Enri!

      Delete
  13. Fantastic skirt! Beautifully made inside and out. I like the way you styled it.

    ReplyDelete
  14. I love this style of skirt - snug across the hips with a flounced hemline. The tweed is a winner.

    ReplyDelete