Wednesday, January 20, 2016

Vogue 8859 - Slim brown pants in quilted cotton

Here's a quick little post to show y'all some pants I made to match an orphan tunic in my closet. Not loving to make pants patterns - even though I keep buying them - I searched around various stores for a brown pair and had no luck. I swatched this chocolate cotton double knit from Mood fabrics and loved the ridges and texture. I also thought a cotton/poly might hold up better then a ponte knit, which in my experience tends to pill after a few washes. 


I used Vogue 8859, a Marci Tilton design which is now sadly out of print. This was the first time I’ve used one of her patterns; most of them aren’t really my style. What I liked about this design was the pleated knee treatment and back yoke. With the fabric being rather thick I decided to leave off the knee pleats on this pair, but will certainly use that design feature in the future.


I was pleasantly surprised by the fit of these pants. The crotch is drafted much more toward the front, which I think helps alleviate those pesky whiskers on the backs of the legs. I cut a straight size 12, my typical Vogue size, but had to cut the waist height down by an inch. These pants are drafted to be VERY high waisted. I have a long torso, so I shudder to think what they would be like on a shorter waisted person. When I make these again I will shorted them below the back yoke before cutting out. For these I had to cut off a good portion of the yoke to not feel like Steve Urkel.


I picked this pattern so that I could play with the ridges in the fabric. From the back of the knee down I turned the fabric horizontal. I topstitched every seam and then graded the fabric to keep the seams from being too lumpy. The hems and waistband I stitched with a wide twin needle.


The waistband is elastic, which is perfectly fine for being worn under a tunic.


This was a simple and quick project, and now I can get some wear out of my top. I am definitely making this pattern up again. With a few tweaks it will become my fitted pants TNT (tried and true).

Note: This fabric was purchased with my Mood Fabrics monthly allowance, as part of my participation in the Mood Sewing Network.

24 comments:

  1. very cute pants and definitely could become a TNT for pants. I had to laugh about the high waist, I always have to make the waist higher or I will have what I call "bikini pants" :)

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    1. Well you might want to look into this pattern then! Lol bikini pants.

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  2. Love how you place the back below the knee with the ridges going horizontal. Very nice design element. These pants fit you beautifully!

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  3. Nice fabric and nice pants! I imagine they would be very comfy too!

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  4. They look great on you! I too like the placement of the fabric below the knee. I think this confirms for me that this pattern would not work on my pear shaped body with hyperextended calves.

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    1. Okay, glad you figured that out! I'm not sure what hyperextended calves are though, lol.

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    2. I learned during pants fitting class that my calves require a "hyperextended calf adjustment" which I think should be renamed "the great gams adjustment" i.e. shapely calves. There is an adjustment that needs to be done if the pants leg is narrow below the knee otherwise the pants are too small around my calf and the pants get hung up on my calves creating drag lines (and are uncomfortable to wear). I always thought this pants pattern was cute but after seeing yours I know it won't work for my body type without some major alterations, and since pants pattern alterations are what caused me to consider stopping sewing all together, I know it's best to move on. Less tears too that way. :)

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    3. How about "muscular calves" or something similar? Hyperextended makes me think you are double jointed at the calf, which is just weird to envision. And I totally hear you on pants making frustrations, which is why I hardly ever make them. Sew what makes you happy is my moto.

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  5. Interesting pattern, really works with the stripes.

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  6. I generally don't care for pull on pants but these are cut well ! I will have to try these too. I love the top! Did you make it too?

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    1. Yeah, me neither. I'm trying to figure out how to make these with a waistband so I can use some neoprene that doesn't like to stay put. Thanks Sally!

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  7. These pants are great! Way to make simple knit pants more interesting with the fabric. :-)

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  8. These pants fit you perfectly. Love the change of direction of fabric at the back.

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  9. Love them! I especially like the detail of the back calf. I may have to try and find this pattern!

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    1. I'm surprised it is already OOP. Generally basic knits have more longevity I think. Thanks Lisa!

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  10. What a great pair of pants. The fabric is such a good choice ( for a slim person at least but not me ) and the Marci Tilton design suits the fabric as well.Looking great Amanda!

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  11. Great pants. I love the seam detail at the back and the change of grain works in my favour as I have very muscular calves.

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