Monday, October 13, 2014

Vogue 1200 - Black + white houndstooth jacket w/ black leather inserts

I am on an outerwear kick. There is a whole pile of these types of garments in my queue that always gets shoved to the side for pretty dresses or simpler patterns. No more! I love outerwear and can't currently make fitted things anyway. Might as well stitch them up. This particular pattern is an Anne Klein design that came out in 2010. I purchased it right when it was released, decided on the fabric, and placed them both in my "winter planned garments" bin. As far as I know nobody ever made the jacket and blogged or wrote a review about it, and the pattern went out of print. Which is really too bad because it is a great design with some lovely details.


The design details I liked include the over-sized collar, bias sleeve and hem bands, bias sides (although I ended up changing those), two-piece sleeves, snap closures and topstitching. I decided to change the sides and undersleeves to leather for an on-trend look. In the end I had barely enough houndstooth for what you see, so that decision saved me from wasting my fabric.


The fabric is a woven houndstooth of mystery content purchased locally, most likely from Hancock fabrics. It is really thick but has a loose weave, so that it shed like crazy and had some drape. It did iron well, though, so there must be some cotton or rayon in it. It does not feel like polyester. I am not sure how insulated from low temps I am going to be wearing this jacket. However, because I live in southern Texas, I still think it will get plenty of wear.

Cutting this jacket out was almost the death of me. There are 19 pattern pieces, most of which are cut twice. Then, because the jacket is almost fully interfaced, you cut them all again in interfacing. I matched the houndstooth print across the fronts and made sure each side mirrored the other. This all had to be done on a single layer of fabric, and I used my triangle to make sure everything was square before I cut into it. I spent 4 days cutting it all out and really sweated those last few pieces fearing I wouldn't have enough fabric.


I was a little fearful this big collar would obliterate the shape of my shoulders, but it sort of curves up at the edges. I'm not sure if this is by intention on the part of the pattern designer or is caused by using a really thick fabric, but I really love the playfulness of it. Besides changing the sides to leather, the only two other deviations I made were to leave off the interfacing on the undercollar and omit the shoulderpads. With a collar covering a good bit of the shoulders, I didn't feel them necessary.


The lining is black Ambiance bought from JoAnne's. A nice thing about this pattern is the facing and lining to not meet up over a bust apex. Lots of big 4 patterns do and you end up with a seam right over the bust, which isn't too flattering. I also appreciate having a back facing.


You may notice something a bit different going on at the bottom of the lining. It is actually finished with a piece of grosgrain ribbon as per the instructions. This was my first time doing anything like this, and it really gave it a nice finish without the need to handstitch the bottom lining to the jacket.


I used large brass snaps from my stash for the closures. These use to come in black as well, but I thought the brass a nice change from all the black and white already present on the jacket. I went to replenish these the other day and they were no longer carried at Hancock fabrics. Hopefully JoAnne's still has them or I will have to find an online source instead. Sewing on these snaps really takes some time since I like to make sure all the snap holes are consistently the same along the entire edge.


The leather I used was purchased years ago from Fabricmartfabrics.com. They use to carry leather skins every fall and have a half off sale around Thanksgiving each year. I have a nice collection of colors and weights now that I'm slowly working my way through. I did interface the leather on the body to give it the same weight as the houndstooth body fabric. The sleeves were left un-interfaced, also per the instructions, so that they can bend easily and not look stiff.


Topstitching through two layers of thick fabric and two layers of interfacing was a bear. I had to stuff everything under my machine foot and the thread broke over any seams. I also broke at least 4 needles before wising up and using a more substantial leather needle.



Dressform pictures:


This project took at least 2 weeks to complete because of all the steps involved, but I had a lot of fun making it. The fabric behaved itself nicely and once I saw how flippy the collar was I got really excited. I'm extremely happy with the fit. I did not muslin since this jacket is suppose to be somewhat loose fitting, and I love how it skims the body without being overly boxy.

92 comments:

  1. The Amazing Amanda strikes again!!! This is beautiful!!

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  2. Perfection as always! If it took you 2 weeks it would take me 4. :)
    That grosgrain ribbon finish at the bottom is lovely! I have to think about how that works and how there is no handstitching involved....

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    1. The lining is left to float freely above the inner band facing. At first I was worried the fabric would start to fray but the lining overlaps the band facing so much that it's not an issue. Thanks Kyle!

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    2. Interesting! I have not seen that kind of finish before. It looks great!

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    3. Yes, I thought it was interesting too. You only see that kind of stuff on the designer patterns. I've never done it but I think it would be fun to go to some high-end department store and snoop shop clothing interiors. Weird, right? That stuff is exciting to me.

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  3. Not boxy at all. It came out great and I always admire your inside finishing work as much as the finished look on the outside.

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  4. You have outdone yourself this time! Love the detail and fabric choices.

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    1. Thanks so much! I think this is one of my favorite things I've made to date.

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  5. Beautiful! The leather really does add that extra touch! Beautiful work as always :)

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  6. Wonderful work inside and out as usual! Love the fabric. Hope you are feeling great!

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    1. Thanks Veronica! I'm feeling... huge, and ready to be done. ;)

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  7. Great looking jacket! Beautiful work.

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  8. Stunning coat, the leather is an amazing accent.

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    1. Thanks Lori! I'm planning to use more of my leather stash in the next few months.

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  9. Beautiful work as ever. How did you interface the leather? Iron or sew in?

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    1. Iron on interfacing. Leather irons - who knew? Some people do use a press cloth for the outside. I... don't, but I should. Thanks Manju!

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  10. You're right, that collar is ace! The whole thing like great and you look fantastic. I hope this pregnancy is leaving you feeling as great as you look. The grosgrain ribbon idea is inspired and makes me want to see the pattern just for that! Rachel ☺

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    1. Thanks so much Rachel! Honestly this has been a harder pregnancy then my others, but I'm glad you can't tell from my pictures.

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  11. Love this! Great post, it was an enjoyable read and the photos are perfect.

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    1. Thank you Shirley! I'm glad you don't think it was picture overload. There were just so many details I wanted to show!

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  12. That is a gorgeous jacket. I'll have to keep my eye out for that pattern secondhand. I love it. You did such a great job with it!

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    1. Thanks WiningWife! They have sales for OOP patterns over at Vogue's website every so often. Keep your eyes open for it and you can get it for a good price. I also like to check Etsy.

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  13. All hail the Queen of beautiful finishing!

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  14. I like how the directional pieces work out with the houndstooth. Sorry the cutting was painful (I can see why it would be) but the result does look great.

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    1. Thank you Scarf! Those bias pieces saved me from having to match up the fabric in that area. This jacket would look great in a plaid as well, like the example on the pattern envelope. And I'm ALWAYS glad I took the time to cut carefully when the garment is finished, even if the process is tedious.

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  15. Love it! The leather is a perfect choice.

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  16. Wow. What a fabulous jacket. It's so good. And really well made.

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  17. Great work Amanda. 4 days of cutting out sounds like torture, especially when I imagine you already have a sore back, but all your work was totally worth it because I'm sure you'll get many years wear out of this. The grosgrain ribbon around the bottom is a nice touch too

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    1. Thank you Kristy! Cutting things out is never fun for me. I wish I had some little imp that would cut it all out and all I had to do was stitch it together.

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  18. Gorgeous! I love the leather inserts and the grosgrain trim around the lining. Such interesting details! It looks really fabulous on you too, the proportions of that collar are magnificent!

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  19. This is fab! You are so inspiring!!

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  20. Beautiful! I love seeing your outerwear creations. Also love to see your growing baby! :-)

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    1. Thanks Jenny! And this baby had better be done growing or I am going to have trouble pushing him out!

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  21. Well, color me jealous! This is really beautiful, Amanda!

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  22. oh amanda! the thought of cutting out 19 pieces...i'm getting dizzy... this is a triumph! absolutely stunning!

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  23. Wow! 19 pieces that alone would have turned me off. Anyway it looks fantastic. Excellent craftsmanship.

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  24. Really nice, Amanda! Well worth the time spent on it. —Meg

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  25. fantastic, love this jacket with the leather insets. I was just thinking about leather trim this morning. and your pattern matching is a beauty!

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    1. Thank you Beth! I love the leather trim idea too. Hmmm, now you've got me thinking about another jacket I want to work on.

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  26. I think this is one of my favorite things you have ever made. It has a classic shape with an interesting flair from the fabric choice. Really well executed!

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    1. Thanks so much Heidi! This is one of my all time favorite pieces too!

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  27. Outstanding job on this jacket, Amanda! 4 days to cut out the pattern - no wonder it is absolutely perfect! What an inspiration you are to take your time and do it right :)

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    1. Thank you Sarah! Some of that time can be attributed to having a big preggo belly and some to the distraction of the TV in the background. Honestly I find cutting things out so incredibly dull that I have to have something on to get through it. HOW do people have marathon cutting out sessions? I just do not understand it.

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  28. Nice fabric and jacket, Amanda!
    WIlma

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  29. This is so cute! I bet you'll be wearing it for years to come!

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  30. This is gorgeous. Love the leather insets.

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  31. love ,love, love! beautiful workmanship, classic styling. All those broken needles were worth it right????

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  32. Amazing! I really like how you have managed to match the fabric so nicely and the fit is wonderful!

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  33. LUV the leather and the hounds-tooth together. Great job!

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  34. Amanda, I do not understand where you are buying time for tailoring? :)

    The jacket is great! And you look great!

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  35. Beautiful jacket! I really love the leather detail. Looks like you did a great job making it!

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  36. Stunning jacket and beautifully sewn. Good luck with the pregnancy.

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  37. Beautiful work and your care (not to mention admirable patience!) in cutting it out paid off, as did not quite having enough fabric - the leather accents look so good.

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  38. Oh my! I do love your work! This jacket is so "a mon gout" . Sorry . I'm a French Cnadian and sometimes, a French word or idiom just fits what I want to say.It translates to "to my taste" so not as good in English. I love the black and white , the leather deatils and the design of this jacket. Bet you can't wait to wear this.You've probably had the baby by now. I have been sick so haven't been blog visiting for a while.
    Good luck with yyour new baby Amanda!

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    1. Thanks Diana! I did have him back on the 16th, and am taking a little sewing break while we get acquainted with each other.

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  39. Wow! I love, love, love this! I was lucky enough to have bought this pattern when it was in print, but never quite had the right piece of fabric for it. Great idea mixing the leather in with the houndstooth.

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    1. Thanks Ann! And if you live near a Hancock Fabrics and like the houndstooth, I saw it there the other day. They must have brought it back for this fall.

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  40. This is absolutely amazing! Love the leather side bits and that collar is a killer! Well done!

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  41. I think I bought the same fabric with no idea of what to do with it. Thanks for sharing these details with us. Like you, I recently spent some time shopping garments peaking at inside finishes, fabric and design. Lovely job on this jacket and love that ribbon finish.

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    1. Thanks Toocutedobs! I'm glad to know other people are just as fanatical about insides as I am!

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