Monday, September 1, 2014

Burda 1-2009-123 - Green w/ aqua military style parka

According to Burda, parka jackets were all the rage 5 years ago. I'm not sure if that's still the case, but I think this style of jacket is rather timeless. I was drawn to this design for its patch pockets, stand collar, cuffs, topstitching, snaps, and belted middle, and bought this lightweight poly taffeta from Gorgeous Fabrics especially for it. I'm trying to make things that I don't have to worry about fitting perfectly when baby boy is born, so after 5 years, this jacket finally made it to the front of my queue.


I really liked the belt and belt casing of the original design, but sever fabric shortage forced me to amend the pattern. Instead I made an elastic casing by sewing the outer fabric and the lining together, threaded the 1.5" elastic through, and stitched the ends closed. I always love garments with waist definition, even though I currently look like a brick from behind.


Dressform pictures:


Wow, was this jacket a lot of work. The fabric was a complete bear to work with. It stretched, its edges wobbled, it shrank in when it was pressed. The patch pockets took FOREVER to complete because it was so hard to get a crisp and straight edge. Plus there's three lines of topstitching. I really love the look of topstitching and actually enjoy doing it too, but 3 times around was a bit much. Oh, and 16 snaps. Sixteen snaps y'all, with top and bottom pieces to each one. My house rang with the sounds of hammering for days.


I had a little bit of this aquamarine silk crepe left over from this dress I made in August of last year, and knew it was the perfect shade to match the blue bits in my fabric. I ordered another 2 yards of it from Mood for the lining. That front facing is suppose to extend down to the hemline, but I had to improvise, again due to fabric shortage.


Here are the pictures from the magazine:


I love my new jacket, but I am really relieved to be finished making it. August was not a great month for sewing. I started 4 projects that either ended in wadders or the need to purchase more fabric. Sitting on the floor cutting out fabric is really tough on my poor body with this huge bulging belly, and to have the project end in an unwearable garment 3 times in a row was frustrating and depressing. I still have a strong desire to sew, though, and am hoping to be super productive in September. Baby boy is due mid October.

62 comments:

  1. Impeccable work as always!!!
    Do you have a sewing room/space? Could you get a cutting table? Mine was around $50 from Ikea and has adjustable legs...almost 36" tall. I really love it!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Haha, I WISH! I sew in the corner of my bedroom with the iron a permanent fixture next to the window. All our other bedrooms are taken up by children. I could cut things out on the dining room table with one of those cardboard cutting mats spread over it, but I usually like to distract myself with the TV. It's only a problem lately with this baby belly. Thanks for your comment!

      Delete
  2. Okay, that fabric may have been a bear to work with, put it paid off. Cool jacket!

    ReplyDelete
  3. So gorgeous! Worth all the effort - you love this for years.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Lovely! The lining is perfect and the whole garment looks so well put together!

    ReplyDelete
  5. This jacket looks perfect on you! I am so glad you persevered!

    ReplyDelete
  6. Beautiful jacket! It was worth all the pain - and think how much your brain grew and stretched while working out the problems. Great job on working through something that was tough!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Maris! One of the things I love about sewing is all the thinking I do to solve issues. Sometimes it's like one big puzzle.

      Delete
  7. The jacket is really nice. I love the military style. Those difficult fabrics... I just finished sewing with one. Those snaps and grommets are a lot of hammering, lol. On one project years ago, my neighbor called to find out what "that hammering sound" was. Thank goodness she understood and was not angry at me :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Danice! Working with difficult fabrics always makes my project stretch on and on because I find myself taking lots of breaks or finding other things to do during my sewing time.

      Delete
  8. Gorgeous coat, it was worth all your hard work!

    ReplyDelete
  9. Such a good looking jacket. And you look so well.

    ReplyDelete
  10. Congratulations on your pregnancy.. I do have one question and it could be answered with a blog post (and without getting on the floor!) as I'm sure many would be interested in this. You've been sewing for quite some time now, and your clothes seem to be well made, so will last quite some time. Do you run out of closet space? do you have a sort out? what do you do with clothes that you've made that are still good but no longer fit/suit you?

    thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm better these days about choosing patterns and fabrics carefully and making muslins to perfect fit, but that has not always been the case with my sewing. I do save some things that are particularly well made that don't fit anymore, but for the most part I donate what doesn't work along with my unwanted storebought clothing. I actually just did a closet clean out of all my fall/winter stuff in preparation for after this baby is born - I am SO ready to get back into my regular clothes. I donated bags and bags of unwanted garments and shoes. I really don't get attached to things on an emotional level, so it's easy for me to get rid of stuff.

      Delete
  11. wow this jacket is amazing! i love the topstitching, great work!

    ReplyDelete
  12. Amanda this is a beautiful jacket. I'm always excited when I open email and see that you've posted a blog. You sew so well!

    Karen

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Well thanks Karen! I wish so much time didn't go by between posts. I'm sure some people have written me off since I'm now so slow and unproductive.

      Delete
    2. nope!! Don't ever worry about the time between posts. I will keep reading and I am sure there are many others who will, too!

      Delete
  13. Wow! As always, your details are inspiring. All the little snaps and top stitching look impeccable.

    ReplyDelete
  14. perfection as always (that blue pop!), and lovely to see your beautiful face!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oona, you know just what to say to make a girl's day! Thanks!!!

      Delete
  15. I've had this pattern traced for at least two years and fabric purchased for at least that long but I haven't gotten around to it. I love your version. I have a couple of questions for you: 1. Do you think it would work as well in a heavier fabric (like a twill)? and Where did you source your snaps? Would you recommend using buttons instead? Thaks!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. 1. Yes, I think it would definitely work with a heavier weight fabric, but if you want the waist definition I recommend elastic for sure. I had planned to put elastic in with the belt only sewn to the ends, so that it looked like a cinched in belt without my having to arrange it all the time.
      2. The snaps I got from JoAnne and Hancock Fabrics. They're just the heavy weight snaps that come in a package of 6. I bought one package with the metal applicator and two others without. The circles are suppose to be on the backs of the receiving end of the snap, but I just hammered mine on the fronts instead. You can of course use buttons, but that might take away a little from the sporty vibe of the design.

      Delete
    2. Thanks for the info. I will definitely use elastic!

      Delete
  16. Amanda your sewing skill is always an inspiration. Great job and good to know everyone has troubles with some projects. But you persevered and won!

    ReplyDelete
  17. Fantastic jacket. The inside is just as nice as the outside. Congratulations for the baby to come.

    ReplyDelete
  18. That is a gorgeous jacket! I am so glad this project turned out well because you certainly deserved it after 3 wadders. And I am glad to know you go through those spells, too. I definitely do!!
    And congrats on the baby boy coming soon!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks so much Robin! Having those first 3 go wrong made me grit my teeth even when I was sick of making it and wanted to put it aside, so I suppose they weren't a total waste.

      Delete
  19. That looks fabulous and shows a lot of work went into it. I hate wadders, destroys my confidence until something works out right.

    A little boy coming, wonderful. I hope all goes well for you all.

    ReplyDelete
  20. Beautiful work as ever Amanda. And well done for persisting with the sewing even with baby bump. Soon to be 4 kids: when do you find time?! Any way the jacket is impeccable.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Manju! I don't find that much time these days, lol.

      Delete
  21. It's so nice to see your face (and your belly). I love this jacket. Such beautiful workwomanship.

    ReplyDelete
  22. This looks amazing! I really like the way that it looks like a standard olive green from far away, but when you get closer you can see the bright aqua popping out at you! The finish is immaculate, as always- your sewing skill always amazes me! I bet you'll be wearing (and loving!) this for years!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Ginger! I truly love fabrics with texture for that very reason.

      Delete
  23. I thought I had left a comment before on this post! I guess not! I love, love this Amanda. The colours and details are perfect. I made this jacket a couple of years ago but chickened out of putting the snap buttons and changed the pockets to a different style but I love my jacket and get comments every time I wear it. You will too. . It's gorgeous.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I totally forgot you made this! There's aren't many made up online that I know of, which is a shame as it's such a lovely design. I combed through your projects and found the one you made and it is really cool! Especially those multiple lines of topstitching. I am filing that away for later use. Thanks!

      Delete
  24. That is some seriously cool, unique fabric. It made a great looking jacket. Love the idea of silk luxury fabric lining a parka,.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Audrey! I use to use regular linings (read: cheap) or Ambiance if the garment was really nice, but these days I find it fun to find the perfect silk something or other. Of course I have to locate all my linings online now as my local fabric stores carry ZERO silk fabrics.

      Delete
  25. Beautiful work. Funny I was only revisiting my early Burdas and thought how fresh so many of the patterns are. Your fabric is amazing.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Gail! I like to go back through my Burdas from time to time too. It's so easy to forget what's in them.

      Delete
  26. As always, your finishing is breathtakingly flawless! All of your sewing projects could easily be worn inside out. I am so inspired by you to improve my finishing techniques.

    ReplyDelete