Friday, June 28, 2013

Simplicity 2314 - Black & white bias lace skirt

I have wanted to try this type of chevron effect for several years. Stripes are fun to be creative with but sometimes challenging to sew. This wavy lace from Mood Fabrics wasn't difficult at all, though, because it's a medium weight and kept its shape when sewn in bias form. It also had the cutest wavy black edges that I wasn't able to use for this garment.


The pattern I used had straight grain arrows on the paper, so first I had to draw in the bias grainline that I wanted. I did that with a drafting triangle left over from a college blueprint class. Then I determined where I wanted my center front - in the middle of one of the black zigs - and lined up my newly drawn grainline. I didn't want any tiny bits of black or white to show up in the corners. After the first piece was cut I flipped it over and used it to cut a mirror piece for the other side. I cut my back pieces the same way, being careful to start the center back in the same spot as the center front. The sides match up horizontally but not completely vertically because the side seams are at a slight angle.


Obviously, being lace, I had to have some sort of lining or underlining. Fortuitously, I happened to lay the lace over a beige skirt I needed to iron on my ironing board. Black, white and beige go together so nicely and it doesn't distract from the skirt design. I used a thin cotton blend bought locally and cut it out using the original straight grainlines printed on the pattern. All the lace pieces were underlined before being stitched together.


I had intended to use an underlined piece of lace for the waistband as well, but none of the lines matched up and I didn't like the effect. Instead I used a piece of 2" petersham grosgrain ribbon from my stash. It was stitched along the bottom of the ribbon to the inside of the skirt, then folded over and carefully stitched to the outside along the same row of stitching.


I chose not to line this skirt and finished all the seams with my overlocking foot. The black tab of my invisible zipper disappears into the black of the lace at the top side seam. For the hem, I cut facings from the beige underlining. Since I needed to attach the hem by hand in order to not catch the outer lace, I used hem lace at the edge of the facing and whip stitched. I find my whip stitching always looks nicer with hem lace.


Here are a few more dressform pictures of the front, side and back:


I used Simplicity 2314 for this project. This is a simple pattern with a waistband, which pattern companies strangely don't seem to include on most skirt patterns.



I like my new skirt a lot! Black and white is very trendy right now, but it's also a classic color combination. I have a large remnant left over so you might just this fabric again soon!

Photo bomb!

72 comments:

  1. I love your skirt - it is beautiful! I very much admire your creativity with this fabric - gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Impeccable sewing :) Love the new skirt.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Yeeah!! I saw this on the MSN blog, but it wouldn't let me comment for some reason :( SOOO I'm commenting here. I love what you did with this skirt! I'm a big fan of playing with stripes to make interesting designs - especially chevrons - but it has never occurred to me to use such a wavy stripe. The effect is really awesome! And, as always, your sewing is freaking impeccable. I can't even see the seams!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Great looking skirt. Love the bias. Your boys look adorable!!!I love kids!!!

    ReplyDelete
  5. It's really lovely. Great job!

    ReplyDelete
  6. fantastic and creative, an expensive designer look. love it.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Super cute skirt, and as always, it looks perfect. Yes, black and white is a favorite of mine too. I really enjoy any fabric and construction details you choose to include too - don't think it's just boring stuff to those of us that are learning! Way to use your construction knowledge :)

    ReplyDelete
  8. Wow Amanda! That is an amazing skirt! Your use of the lace is simply outstanding!! Not only is it adorable, but you are right on trend with the black & white stripes and lace combo. Love it!

    ReplyDelete
  9. Beautiful! I love the lace.

    ReplyDelete
  10. Very pretty! I love the chevron effect.

    ReplyDelete
  11. I am consistently amazed at what you sew. This skirt, in particular, is so fun! If I lived in Texas, I would beg for sewing lessons from you. I've taught myself the little that I know, but the beautiful finishing you do is beyond me and the creativity with lines and patterns that you possess is inspiring. Thank you for sharing.

    ReplyDelete
  12. Like Beth I find that your skirt is real designer style and quality. The beige underlining is perfecto!

    ReplyDelete
  13. Exquisite work, as usual! This skirt is deceptively simple - but the effect is so striking. Well done.

    ReplyDelete
  14. Oh, what an adorable set of boys you have! And your pattern-matching skills are unsurpassed, I'm always so impressed. Great job.

    ReplyDelete
  15. Hi Amanda,
    What a creative use of interesting fabric! Perfect matching job also. Did you have any trouble with the lace stretching at the side seams? It's very cute with the black top.
    Love seeing the boys with you in the picture.
    Love, Mom

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Mom. No, no problems with stretch at the side seams since I used straight grain beige fabric for the underlining. Also the fabric is a nice medium weight and really held it's shape.

      Delete
  16. Hey,
    sweet outfit and a great skirt! :)
    Love
    Tabea

    http://wolkedrei.blogspot.de/

    ReplyDelete
  17. Beautiful work, as usual! You have a great eye for matching a fabric, to a pattern, and then adding your own style to it...

    ReplyDelete
  18. I wouldn't have look twice at this fabric, but gosh it looks amazing. Love the photo with the boys too.

    ReplyDelete
  19. Very clever! It looks so cool.

    ReplyDelete
  20. I love how the chevron turned out. Beautiful fabric choice!

    ReplyDelete
  21. I love this skirt...very funky! The beige underlining adds the perfect amount of a third colour.

    ReplyDelete
  22. Very cute skirt; loved how you used the fabric and beige lining was perfect idea.

    ReplyDelete
  23. A beautiful and very unique skirt.

    ReplyDelete
  24. Really inspired choice to use the nude lining!! Seems so obvious yet not sure I would have come up with it :)
    Also cute photobomb :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks LLBB. I was all set to take my fabric into the local fabric store and try it with all different colors when it happened to fall on to of that beige skirt. Color chosen!

      Delete
  25. Wow, what a clever idea. Your skirt looks fabulous!

    ReplyDelete
  26. The wavy chevron design is fantastic! You have such a talent for making classic, yet very creative clothes.

    ReplyDelete
  27. WOW, I'm in awe! Not only because of using lace, not so easy, and you lined it so nicely, but also you lined up the chevron stripes perfectly! I just love this skirt. A winner, for sure.

    ReplyDelete
  28. Lovely! I chose not to read the other comments, otherwise I won´t write anything.
    I´ve been working with lace lately and I really appreciate your work. It is just perfect,and on the bias, wow!
    This is a gorgeous skirt!

    ReplyDelete
  29. Gorgeous skirt and such handsome sons. Happy Birthday young men.

    ReplyDelete
  30. I love the chevron effect and as usual am in awe of your print-handling skills. I was trying to channel you while working on a recent stripe project, but was not entirely successful...

    ReplyDelete
  31. Such an interesting effect, Amanda. I really love that you thought outside the box with this stripey, chevron thing. I would have never imagined lace of any kind being easy to manipulate. Looks great on, too!

    ReplyDelete
  32. Ooo! This is such a pretty chevron skirt. You matched the stripes so perfectly. I love it!

    ReplyDelete
  33. This is brilliant! It looks kind of labor-intensive, but so pretty. The sewing community over at Kollabora would love it.

    ReplyDelete