Friday, May 21, 2010

NewLook 6909 - Gray pinstripe wool dress

This was a new pattern last fall that I absolutely fell in love with: the rolled standing bias collar, collar bow, front pockets, tucked cap sleeves and fitted sheath shape. I knew a pinstripe was needed to show off all the bias details, and found this lightweight wool at Hancock's for 50% off. Looks exactly like the envelope picture, right? Sometimes I am very influenced by the pattern picture, as I'm sure some of you are as well.

I would try this on for you but it doesn't fit currently. I'm 6 months pregnant. However, it fits my custom dressform perfectly, so it is sure to fit me. Very few alterations were needed. A bit was taken off the upper side seams for my small bust and some was added to the waist. I have a very square shape. The only other fit detail was to shave 3/8" off the center front panel in the hip area. That was kind of a strange princess seam, and you'll note on the envelope picture how their mock up is baggy on the model in that area. I'm guessing most people don't have hips that jut forward at the side front seams, but I could be wrong.

The pattern pieces were cut out individually to insure that they were on grain and mirror images of the other half. This is a pain, but makes for a very expensive looking garment.

Here is the neckline and bow detail that I so adored. The rest of the dress is pretty simple, and I feel it adds a bit of whimsy without being too cutesy.

An invisible zipper was used at the back and the collar closed with two hooks and eyes.

Here are the cute tucked sleeves. The pattern calls for them to be fully lined, as you can see, to hold the tucks in place.

Don't you just love a dress with pockets? Especially these with their bias facings and angled tops. So fun.

I added a full lining to this dress using black Ambiance. I simply cut the dress out in lining fabric - minus the pocket openings - and used the facings for iron-on interfacing. It's super simple to do, and a must with a wool dress, IMO. The only exposed seam at the armholes was covered with black bias tape.

This dress is definitely for fall with it's wool content and dark color. I'm thinking of knitting a red wool wrap to wear with it on chilling mornings before something heavier is needed. That collar doesn't look like it will cooperate with any of my winter coats. Up next is a jacket so I can keep up with my quota of at least one jacket each month. And I'm not fibbing this time as it's already partially cut out.

64 comments:

  1. I love this dress. You did a beautiful job on it.

    Barb

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  2. Wow! Wow! Very impressed...it is stunning!

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  3. Beautiful! I love this pattern, and you did a great job replicating the pattern photo. The neckline is so adorable!

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  4. The sleeves! The bow! The welt pockets! Love it!

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  5. Wow! This dress is a knockout and so professional looking. It is perfection. Great work.

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  6. The construction is beautiful!

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  7. Very lovely work. No wonder you fell in love with the bow detail!

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  8. It's really beautiful - it will look gorgeous w/ a knitted red wrap! I love the way you finish your garments on the inside - they look just as good as the outside :)))

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  9. Exquisite work. Is it wrong to love the inside as much as the outside? Well done!

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  10. Thanks for sharing all the details! It makes me want to get sewing (something I haven't done a lot of lately). Just stunning!

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  11. Hi Amanda,
    Wow...I absolutely LOVE this dress. The collar and bow are perfect, and the pockets are adorable with the reverse direction of the stripes. You did a fabulous job and it's going to look wonderful on you! Can't wait to see you model it.

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  12. If there were an award for "neatest" or most precise seamstress.. you, by far, would win in my books! You are crazy good!!

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  13. This is exquisite! Looks so professional!

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  14. Looks exquisitely well made, and you are right, the bias pockets look great in the pinstripe!

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  15. Beautiful! Love this dress! Your detail is soooooo perfect!

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  16. Very nice - you made a lovely job of that. I made the square neck version with mid length sleeves. I found the ease allowance odd - 3" for bust and waist, 5" for hip - I also had to remove quite a bit out of the front hip to stop it from looking so baggy. Your version is gorgeous - hope you get lots of wear out of it.. eventually.

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  17. Fantastic sewing job, the pinstripe matching and finishing are astoundingly good! It really does look exactly like the envelope, at least on the outside, I bet yours is superior inside.

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  18. Very beautiful, Amanda. I love dresses like this one. Very elegant.

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  19. One of the cutest dresses you've made.

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  20. You always pick the nicest patterns! This style is SO fabulous and your version of it is absolutely perfect. The fabric is just right - you are going to look so chic and elegant in this dress.

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  21. I bought this pattern last week. Having seen yours, I'm even more anxious to make it. Thanks for the fitting tips as I have never used New Look before. Yours is an inspiration! Absolute perfection.

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  22. Amanda, this dress is absolutely GORGEOUS! You're right - it looks very expensive.

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  23. Love the sleeves, and the stripes -- the stripes are perfect.

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  24. This style is so you! You did a wonderful job on this piece! You have great workmanship as usual!

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  25. That is some beautiful sewing! The dress is awesome. Totally.

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  26. Gorgeous dress! I love those little pleated sleeves.

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  27. Your hard work and painstakingness really paid off with this dress. Do post photos later of you in it.

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  28. Beautiful dress! Great detail and workmanship as usual!

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  29. Beautiful dress, I never saw the pattern before, and must consider buying it. Great result.

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  30. This dress is beautiful and the workmanship is just immaculate. Did you do a separate lining for the sleeves?

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  31. That dress is absolutely gorgeous!!! I am going to have to start looking at Kwik Sew patterns more closely. That is really a nice dress!!!

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  32. Just gorgeous! Love the bow on the collar, and the sleeve tucks too, and your pinstripe nicely accentuates all the details.

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  33. That looks a beautifully made dress...it must be a little frustrating not to be able to wear it just yet.

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  34. I LOVE this dress! You did a wonderful job!

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  35. You have clearly outdone yourself wit this one! The amount of details put into this is unbelievable. Outstanding! This is couture status in my book.

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  36. This is just so gorgeous...I just want to copy it exactly :). When I was pregnant(a long time ago) I made a grey pinstripe pinafore to wear. It will be exciting to have new clothes to wear when you are back to "normal".

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  37. Fabulous dress! I bet you can't wait to put it on.

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  38. Congratulations on the dress and the baby.

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  39. That is a superb example of high quality sewing. I am flabbergasted. One day I might be as good. I love the pattern. I'm impressed, also, that you have the patience and forward-planning to make a dress you know you won't be able to wear for months! Congratulations on the baby.

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  40. This is one of the cutest dresses you've ever made IMO. I just LOVE everything about it. Can't wait to see you modeling it.

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  41. Really pretty. I really need a dress like that for an after-work dinner event this week. Unfortunately, there is no way for me to whip something up in 3 days. Gah! Instead, I'll just admire yours. :)

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  42. Perfection!! Something fab to wear in the near future! Fantastic job.

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  43. What a perfect dress!! I love all the details!

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  44. Exquisitely tailored. I would have such a hard time waiting to wear this!

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  45. This dress is lovely. I just discovered your blog and have read it all back to 2008. You're such a nerd abour your seam finish and pattern matching but I love and admire that. Sew on!

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  46. Beautiufl dress. Love the combination of menswear fabric with the bow detail!

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  47. Amazing! Just a gorgeous dress. And I'm impressed you can sew without being able to try it on as you go!

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  48. It's beautiful! So gorgeous and so perfect. I'm especially jealous of your mad skills working with a pinstriped fabric. So stunning! I can't wait to see it modeled.

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  49. What a beautifully made dress!

    Thanks so much for all the details you post on your blog, and for showing us (me!) how perfectly a garment can be finished if we (I!) take the time. You are an inspiration.

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  50. Amanda - i have to say, i'm totally in awe of your sewing skills. when i need some sewing inspiration your blog is the place i visit.. and i have to say, you've totally turned me on to the whole concept of making the inside as neat as the outside. Before, i just would've finished seams with some zigzagging and if it didn't look neat, who cares? no one would see it. now i understand about pride in a finished garment - especially since i did my first one that way recently. (I keep wanting to flip the hem to show people the perfectly neat seam. Does anyone else get that?).

    anyway. i have a quick question. you use french seams a lot, i know, but what do you do when you're sewing a seam that really needs to lie flat? I mean, a french seam, neat as it is, doesn't lie as flat as if the seams are spread and pressed apart. (In the last garment i made, i finished the seams with a clean finished edge (as described here: http://sewmamasew.com/blog2/?p=488). what would you do in those circumstances?

    thanks!

    keth
    xx

    p.s. congrats on the pregnancy!!

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  51. Hi, Keth, thanks for all your kind words. Concerning seam finishes, I think about the weight of the fabric and if it will be lined or not before I begin. If it's thin enough I usually do a french seam. If it's shear I always do french. If it's thicker or the seam has to be spread because it contains the zipper, I'll bind both sides with bias tape. If it's to be lined I do not finish the seams since they're contained inside the lining. And if I can't come up with a solution for neat finishes, I'll add a lining or pick a different pattern. I like to think about construction and finishing techniques even before I go to cut out a garment. This is just how my mind works, it isn't something I have to force myself to do. Hope that helps. I liked reading the article you posted in your comment, especially the part about how serged seam finishes aren't how couture garments are sewn. People always think I'm crazy for not buying a serger. Even if I had the room to put one I don't think I'd want it.
    Amanda

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  52. Amanda - thanks for the reply. That makes a great deal of sense - its what i found myself doing when i made my last top (which i just finished today), and it really does help to go through in your mind all the various stages and how it all fits together. (and you're not alone in not having a serger. i don't, either - i don't have the space for one!).

    Thanks again!!

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  53. Lovely and the inside is so sharp too!
    Jana

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  54. Wow - this dress is amazing. I love pinstriped fabrics, and I love how you handled the lining. It looks very professional and sharp. Thank you for posting so many great images! I want this pattern, now.

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  55. Love this! Perfectly duplicated! I wish I had smaller bust sometimes to avoid having to do fba's. Ugghhh...

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  56. OMG! I fell in love with this pattern too. Your dress is outstanding every detail. Sometime this year, I'll make this up for my DD. Thanks for showcasing your beautiful dress.

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  57. I'm late to the party as I've been behind on blog reading. This is such a great dress, I went out and purchased it today! You did a beautiful job! And congratulations on the future little girl--see I really was behind!;-)

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  58. Hi Amanda,

    I need some help with lining garments and after seeing how nicely you lined this garment I figured you were definitely the person to ask! :-)

    Can you recommend any lining tutorials that you have written or that you followed to learn how to do it so well yourself?

    I have stayed away from linings because they just seem tricky.

    Thanks,

    ~ Kelly

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  59. Dear Amanda

    I am very happy whenever your posts appear on my Reader. Your works never fail to amaze me. I forgot to tell you that I was inspired by your dress when I made mine (would be happy if you can take a look):

    http://sertyan.blogspot.com/2012/01/blue-work-dress-new-look-6909.html

    Cheers! I will be making Butterick 5521 next after being inspired for the second time by you.

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